Abtnoski Adventure in the BVI: Day 6

Manchioneel Bay, Cooper Island to the Baths, Virgin Gorda to Saba Rock, Virgin Gorda

Up early and motoring again (into the wind and charging the holding plates in the refrigerator), this time headed to the Baths on the southwest side of Virgin Gorda. A boat high and dry on a reef reminded us to pay attention to where we were going.

We picked up one of about 20 red mooring balls, not too far from another boat. This was the first time Ed and I screwed up the mooring. Our procedure was to rig a line from one bow cleat across the bow (under the anchors) and pick up the mooring pick-up buoy on the other side. We’d string the line through the eye and tie off to the other bow cleat. Where I screwed up was getting the bridle on the wrong side of the genoa furling line and in trying to get it straight, I just made a bigger mess. We ended up using another line to take the load off the bridle until I could re-reave the line correctly.

Then it was breakfast and coffee and getting ready for shore and snorkeling. The crew from the other boat were on shore, but we still couldn’t figure out just where the Baths were or how to get to them. Bob, Kevin and Ed headed off on reconnaissance only to find that, once again, there were dinghy mooring areas, as well as signs leading us to the trail to Devils Bay. Things had changed since the guidebooks were written, apparently.

I think we were the first to take the trail that morning, and we were certainly the only group in Devils Bay. The Baths are piles of large round rocks creating small pools and steep climbs, with walkways and staircases to help the walkers get around and over the rocks. The other end of the trail was a perfect Caribbean beach. Unfortunately, we had left our snorkeling gear in the dinghy at the other end of the trail. We could have just walked back along the ½ mile trail, but nooooo. Ed and I decided on the adventure of swimming back, and I realized that I was more afraid of bottom than I was of the water. Once again, we had the ‘getting-in-the-dinghy-from-the-water’ problem. Ed got in first, and I was, once again, unceremoniously heaved into the bottom of the dinghy. How humiliating. (see picture)

The snorkeling to the south of Devils Bay was wonderful (see picture). We snorkeled over deep crevasses and through narrow spaces between the rocks. Lots of fish and coral and colors and sunlight thru the water making shifting patterns on everything underwater. Soon, the ferries began arriving dropping off hordes of day visitors, and we decided it was time to go. 10 am, right on schedule.

It was a challenging day of sailing, with both sails reefed and the tiltometer going off regularly. Again, we were sailing upwind, tacking into 20-25 kts of wind and 5-7 foot seas. The entrance to Gorda Sound, or Virgin Sound or North Sound is around the north side of Virgin Gorda—a narrow channel between two reefs (Mosquito Island and Prickly Pear Island). Bob and I had words about sailing too close and making the mark, but we got past it pretty quick.

The BVI did not look nearly as tropical as I expected. The islands looked more like they were in the Gulf of California—with cactus and grey, dry looking shrubs. There were few trees, or even tall shrubs, and the palms looked planted, as they were only at the resorts.

My mental picture of the BVI was also skewed regarding the resorts. I think the Pirates Cove and Coopers Island resorts were sort of like I had imagined, but I had envisioned North Sound as a developed and settled area with resorts lining the shoreline and people and sailboats and delivery boats and garbage boats scurrying everywhere. In truth, there were two teeny settlements and an even teenier rock. We moored at Saba Rock, but could also have picked up a mooring at the Bitter End Yacht Club or at Leverick Bay.

Saba Rock is small island with reefs to either side, but otherwise open to the sea and…Portugal?? These reefs extend to the main island of Virgin Gorda and the smaller Prickly Pear Island. The owner of the SR resort is into old outboards and has a small museum in the gift store. (see picture)

It was hot.

There was considerably more development at the Bitter End, (see picture) but even though the islands are small, the resorts felt smaller. There was a bar, a fuel dock, the hotel, a small conference facility, two curio/gift/grocery stores and the yacht shots store. The previous day we had been photographed by YachtShotsBVI—the pictures can be found at http:// for the next 2 months or so. It was hard to get really excited about the BEYC, although it was beautiful.

Dinner on board, and a good windy night. It was still hot though. As usual.